June 02, 2003

Das ist fil spass

We're currently deep in the heart of Bavaria at Markus' aunt's farm / house, and it's been an experience that's been both very rewarding and moderately frustrating so far. Before I get onto that, a few quick notes on Versailles and the trip to Munich:

  • We hung out with Lindsay and Carrie the previous two evenings before we left Paris. They were great fun to talk with; you gain all sorts of new perspectives on your surroundings abroad when you can relate not only to your way of life back home, but also someone else's way of life...even if it isn't fundamentally different. (Though Markus and I really enjoyed hearing all about what sorority life is like. I had no idea they live in giant 50-plus-people houses down there!) And then we explored Versailles together on our last day in Paris. It certainly added to the experience to visit the palace and the gardens in a larger group than we were used to, which more-or-less forced us to check things out a bit more thoroughly. We relaxed and napped for hours in the grass on the banks of a long river running past the gardens, surrounded by many, many Parisians. Also, exploring the interior of the castle was a blast. The sheer extravagance of the place was overwhelming. It was far more vast than I imagined any royal palace could possibly be; it was easy to see how kings and nobility felt like they control the very world in a place of such grandeur. It's impossible to think small.

  • Lindsay and Carrie also had an amusing story from the park in front of the Eiffel tower. They're lying on the grass, relaxing, when a Frenchman bikes up and starts chatting. Explains that he works at a bank, but it's his day off, and talks to them about Paris. After a scant few minutes, he invites them for dinner. Dinner out, or "I'll make you dinner at my place! And since there are two of you, I will invite a friend." And also offers to drive them to Versailles the next day after hearing of their plans. The girls understandably didn't accept, so the guy pushed a little more, then when his plan wasn't accepted he offered his "business card" from a fanny pack (with many more cards visible) with an open invitation to call him anytime. He then biked off in search of more tourist girls. We saw the card: It was printed on a poor printer on ink jet business card stock, with a light blue sand dune in the background. No business name anywhere, of course. It's a lame ploy: Many people are in Paris with dreams of romance and adventure, and these guys will hit up any visible tourist girls they can find until someone gullible and naive enough to fall for it. At a bar, at least you know you can expect that sort of thing. Anyway, Lindsay and Carrier are now moving on to study agriculture in the south of France for the summer – best of luck!

  • Before our overnight train set off for Munich, the other people sharing our über-packed sleeper room broke out a bottle of wine and toasted the journey. I chatted with them, and exchanged the usual questions we've become accustomed to asking and answering in the hostels: "Where are you from?" "Where are you going?" "How long have you been here?" "What is there to do in X?" The hostels are usually packed with fellow Canadians, but when I told these people where I was from, they exclaimed in French, "Canada, what a dream!" They were truly envious of me. And here I am thinking that France wouldn't be a terrible place to live for a while someday. I guess the grass is always greener...

    So, we're in Germany. I couldn't be more deeply in Germany right now if I was dressed in Lederhosen and drinking beer in the Black Forest. Markus' aunt and uncle live about an hour or two out of Munich, and operate, of all things, a successful butcher shop. Cresting the hill coming into town, you see a tight collection of orange rooftops that make up the village of Mauern, population 1600. Apparently the Department of Scenic European Villages has decreed that all houses in Europe use orange clay roof tiles. Rolling hills and farmland surround the village on all sides.

    The experience here is incredible. No amount of tour guide money could give me more exposure into authentic German countryside life right now. (Albeit a modern life! I'm also realizing more and more how difficult it is for countries to maintain a cultural identity when the world is shrinking by the day.) Sepp is a master butcher, with a shop across from the house, and we've been having fantastic meals with top-quality meats, cheeses, breads, and large glasses of beer every day. Christina's father and mother (Markus' grandparents) live about ten minutes out of town. Three cousins here (plus two close friends who are permanent fixtures), and five kids back in Dryden make for a very huge, tight-knit family for Markus; there are photographs of the kids blanketing every wall in the house. It's a large-family experience that I've never really shared, except for the occasional massive gathering of second and third cousins in Toronto.

    So, our first few days have consisted of horsing around with the kids, driving out along narrow country roads to visit Markus' grandparents, not worrying about where our money belts and backpacks are, and eating large, large meals. We swam and played with the kids in a pool (Markus and I are severely burnt; I forgot to put the sunscreen on, Mom!), chatted with Markus' grandparents, played cards many times, and have generally chilled to the max. We'll likely check out some of the museums and beer gardens in Munich, as well as some nearby castles, over the next few days.

    Still, despite being surrounded by so many friendly people, I've felt rather isolated at times. There's a huge language barrier; in large or small groups, everyone's speaking German for hours, laughing and animated, and I'm not sure what to do besides look at whoever's talking and smile along as if I understand what's being said. I'd feel very lonely if everyone wasn't so incredibly hospitable all the time. It's strange watching Markus, who still has all of his same expressions and martial-arts action sounds, but has been permanently been switched over to the German channel. Sometimes it feels like I can't reach him anymore because he won't understand me if I talk to him. Markus sums up what's been discussed every so often, as he mentioned, but it's such an awkward and frustrating feeling when I hear my name in a conversation -- everyone looks at me, and more talking continues while I'm watched, waiting for a reaction I just can't give. I stare back with an inquisitive look. Finally the talking stops, someone translates, and I can finally react. It's all totally expected, of course, and understandable, but it's definitely hastened my desire to learn basic German. (I can now count to ten, exchange basic greetings / farewells, say assorted "Thank you" and "This is very good / fun / appreciated" phrases, and a smattering of useful words that have come up. Oh, and the only thing Markus has been able to teach me is the fastest route to the porcelin god.)

    Enough people know English well enough that I can definitely get the point across when I need to, though. Christina and Markus' grandparents, especially, are fluent. Markus' grandfather has talked to me quite a lot; I've really enjoyed speaking with him, and he's told me many things about the area, the family, Germany, and more. And Christina and Sepp have made me feel like family; I couldn't ask for better hosts. They'll go miles out of their way to make sure that the smallest needs are met. I am very much in their debt for such wunderbar hospitality.

    One constant around the world: The Simpsons. Or as they're ominously called here, "Die Simpsons" (reminding me of "Die Bart Die"). It's strange hearing different voices for each character, talking in German. Homer sounds rather serious, Bart sounds like a girl (of course, he's voiced by a woman in the English version), Dr. Hibert's laugh and Nelson's ha-ha are nowhere near as effective, and Marge sounds positively murderous. The really strange part, though, is that Lisa sounds identical to the English version, except she's talking German.

    Anyway, some pictures to end this lengthy post! They shouldn't take too long to download this time. Most are a smaller image size and I'm trying out something new for compression. Later cool kids.

    Pictures

  • "Oh, waut's this? It's just a wee little girl! ...Ooohf!"
  • The Hall of Mirrors, at Versailles. Markus asked me to dedicate this to Orvy.
  • Us with Carrie and Lindsay. (Are you guys happy now? Girls!)
  • Versailles, packed with tourists
  • From the gardens at Versailles
  • Jacob excellently masters "Fetsin" over Markus

    Posted by Brian at June 2, 2003 01:13 AM
  • Comments

    Hey Brian!

    Sounds like you're having a great time, and I'm sure that the good outweighs any confusion derived from the language barriers. Don't worry about that too much now, you'll catch on soon enough. It's great to see that you're having such a good time, too bad we never did anything so grand in all those scouting trips we did when younger.

    Oh hey, I just rented out the last room in the house to a girl that lives in Sudbury...going to be a full house come September. Nothing much new on my end, but I do have my convocation on Thursday of this week; so I'll get to send you some pictures for a change. Enjoy this week, the start of a whole new month!

    -Mike

    Posted by: Michael Holt at June 2, 2003 04:55 AM

    Hey Brian!

    Sounds like you're having a fantastic time in Europe while we're slaving away at Redknee. It's ok that your sausage is green, we don't mind. We accept you the way that you are.

    Pictures are most awesome! One suggestion though. You took a lot of pictures of the stuff that can be found in a travel book. Museums and other sightseeing places. Although they ARE great, it would be cool to see some pictures that reflect european lifestyle that cannot be seen without going there. More 'people' would be good. Also some basic non touristy stuff would be neat - just stuff that you don't see in canada every day or at all.

    cheers
    Serge

    Posted by: Serge at June 2, 2003 09:59 PM

    Ok, WAY too adorable with the matching outfits! I mean, even the same SHADE of blue! ;) I was going to go somewhere with this comment, but I thought since I'm such a "PCer" I oughta keep it to myself. Have fun!

    Posted by: Jill at June 3, 2003 03:19 AM

    Jill, we all appreciate your PCness. It would be wrong to talk about how gay matching outfits are, so we won't. :) Ha ha, just kidding... I'm sure the whole 'being twins' wasn't done on purpose.

    Bri', just put a positive spin on your situation. I'd love to be in your shoes, immersed in the language. I've probably lost nearly all of the German I've learnt, and it would be nice to be forced into remembering it all. As for the two girls, which one's which? Hmmm... I feel like I've given Markus hasty girl-advice in the past, so I should keep my mouth shut for once! Enjoy the museums tomorrow, and wow, with these descriptive postings, I feel like I'm actually there!

    Posted by: Éric Gagnon at June 3, 2003 06:55 AM

    you got beat up by Jacob, your weak man weak!!! keep sending pictures Mark.
    Your bro mike

    Posted by: Mike at June 3, 2003 09:48 PM

    Hey Mike, glad to hear about renting the room. Good luck at your convocation, you're the first one to graduate!

    Serge, your comments got us thinking like none other! Basically, the way we see pictures is a) they're, first and foremost, to provide us memories, b) to entertain you guys, and c) so I can try and do some artsy shots and improve my photographic skills. We're definitely going to try and take more 'non-touristy' shots, but keep in mind it's hard to whip out the camera and take shots of people relaxing drinking beer without being very intrusive and obvious about it. Also, European lifestyle is not very outwardly different from North America! It really is a small world now.

    Jill, haha, mine's actually a shade of grey, but I noticed the same thing. I always find it hilarious when I see two travellers from some country both wearing the exact same fashion that totally doesn't mesh with the locals; one alone would stick out enough, but the two together is a much bigger sight.

    Eric, I was definitely experiencing that sort of feeling in France. Only problem is, I've never learnt a word of German before, so no matter how much German I can learn in my short time here, -any- conversation is still 100% gibberish to me. Oh, and Carrie is to the left, Lindsay is to the right.

    Posted by: Brian at June 6, 2003 01:11 PM

    Hey guys, it looks like you are getting some relaxation...we will agree with you that the best way to experience culture is through smaller towns & villages, we spent a day at Carcassone, a medieval fortressed city, and the chateau of the Loire valley were worth the dough we forked out for them, Lindsay even liked it better than Versailles..glad to hear things are going well, & we look forward to future updates!
    Lindsay & Carrie

    Posted by: Carrie at June 9, 2003 07:27 PM
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